Herat, the major city in western Afghanistan, is far from Kabul in the east and Pakistan's back door, where most of the action is. Herat is close to Iran's back door, but the action for Iran is to the west, on the Persian Gulf and on the border with Iraq. That isolation means Herat has been spared the worst of the destruction from the now decades-old wars in Afghanistan.
Update: September 13, 2013: Lest anyone think that Herat is safe in any absolute sense, today's headline proves otherwise: "Taliban insurgents in Herat explode truck bomb outside the U.S. consulate, a former five star hotel, killing three local security force members."
After the jump, Herat in 1977.
In 1977, Herat was comparatively backwards and sleepy, which is saying something for Afghanistan. History is what Herat offers. The Citadel of Alexander dates to 330 BCE, although the mud fort that Alexander the Great built has been rebuilt over and over again through the millennia. The Musallah Complex (minarets, ruins of a madrassa, a mausoleum, and the Great Mosque) dates from the 1400s. For as historic and impressive as the archaeological sites in Herat are, in 1977 they were largely empty. The few tourists who happened upon Herat (mostly overland travelers like myself) were free to wander to their hearts' content. And we did.
One of a continuing series.
Start:
Around the World in 800 Days
Previous:
Across Afghanistan
Next:
Mashhad, Iran
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